xlvef.blogg.se

• #Vegetable garden tracker plus#

I am also planting up a fair number of large pots to sit on the surface of the ground each year – filled with annuals. I expect the walnut roots will be slowed down by the barrier and these plants will be better off in pots than having direct competition – I just started the buried pots approach last year, so I will see how that does at preventing root competition. I have now tried growing boxwood – which seems to grow very slowly – but not die – lemony lace sumbucus – again not thriving but with a little watering is growing slowly, hosta, and various shade plants such as columbine, ferns, tiarella, salmon’s seal and astilbe in over-sized buried plastic pots that have small drainage holes at the bottom.

I do value the shade from this tree – and it’s actually just across the fence on my neighbor’s property, so cutting it down won’t be an option. Heuchera, lamium, and other shade plants usually somewhat tolerant of dry conditions failed to grow. Hostas were just about the only plants that did not show stress. That being said, within 2 yrs, the Norway maple’s roots had fully invaded everywhere in that garden so that the plants no longer thrived. I made sure the soil level immediately around the trunk was not raised.

#Vegetable garden tracker plus#

It was a BIG tree – 2 plus feet diameter trunk, and I doubt covering a small portion of the roots harmed it. Against your advice, I did add a layer of soil when creating the garden under the Norway maple – about 10” or so… but my garden was likely only 15-20% of the surface area under the drip line. Even plants that supposedly like dry shade have stopped flowering and “shrunk” – if not succumbed altogether. Having a garden under the Norway maple has been VERY hard. I garden under black walnuts and a Norway maple, and I find the soil under the black walnuts is fairly moist and I rarely encounter a tree root when putting in spring bulbs or other plants. It is very hard to identify a shady spot at this time of year. Many gardeners plant in spring or fall when trees do not have leaves. Obviously you are looking for a shady spot, but if it is very cloudy, you can’t tell which part of the garden is shady – it’s all shady today.Įven if the sun comes out how do you tell the difference between shade or part-shade? You can’t, unless you stand there all day. You just bought a new plant that likes to grow in shade and you are walking around your garden looking for a place to put it. Sun mapping your garden will help you select the right place for each plant. All you need is paper, a pencil and your hand. There are some electronic gadgets, like the Sunlight Calculator, available that claim to make sun mapping easy, but they simply are not needed.

Things work so much better, and are more enjoyable, if you keep it simple. I am always amazed that some gardeners go out of their way to make our hobby difficult. Sun Mapping Your Garden The Easy Way, Aspen Grove Gardens